Sites in England reveal Jane Austen's life and worldBy CARRIE BEBRIS / Special Contributor to The Dallas Morning News
"The first time I visited England, my travel companion left our itinerary entirely up to me. A self-confessed "Janeite" (Jane Austen fan, in common parlance), I perhaps ought not to have been entrusted with such matters.We disembarked at dawn from our eight-hour flight and drove straight to Jane Austen's house.
KYLE ALCOTT/DMN
Portrait of Jane Austen, based on a drawing in London's National Portrait Gallery.
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The modest cottage, where the author of Pride and Prejudice wrote some of the most beloved novels in all of literature, was fairly quiet that morning. Although long established as a great writer, Jane Austen had not yet become the pop-culture icon she is today.
Now, Jane's status has inspired not only a subgenre of books and other media based on her life and works, but also an expanding segment of the tourism industry.
Visitors from around the world come to England seeking Jane in the places she knew in life and depicted in her stories. Successful film adaptations have added shooting locations to the list of sites associated with her, and tour companies offer itineraries built entirely around Jane.
Indeed, for a woman who lived a relatively retired life two centuries ago, so many places boast connections to her that even Jane's most devoted fans could spend an entire vacation visiting none but Austen-related sites and still not see them all.
Where to begin? Gentle reader, your most obliged servant humbly offers this list of essential sites – those that best capture the spirit of the author, her era and her timeless creations.
Bath: Jane Austen's city
"Oh! who can ever be tired of Bath?"
–Catherine Morland, Northanger Abbey
Jane Austen's world does not merely survive in Bath. It thrives.
An ancient city, Bath's popularity – and population – exploded during the 18th century when its natural hot springs inspired city planners to develop it as an elegant resort. It quickly grew into England's premier spa town, where the fashionable came to take the waters, stroll its shop-lined streets, and, most importantly, socialize with other members of the Polite World.
Though born and raised in the Hampshire village of Steventon, Jane moved to Bath in 1801 when her father retired from his position as vicar. The family hoped Bath's healing waters would improve his declining health. Now a UNESCO World Heritage city, Bath retains so much of its Georgian character and architecture that one almost expects to see ladies in Empire-waist gowns promenading as they did in the Regency era.
Visit in September, and you will.
That is when the annual Jane Austen Festival takes place. The 10-day event celebrates Jane's life, work and times. Venues throughout the city host lectures, concerts, workshops, soirees, dances, Regency dinner parties and other opportunities to immerse oneself in Jane and her era. Special tours and other programs grant visitors entrée into properties not normally open to the public, such as private townhouses. This year's Grand Regency Promenade will attempt to set a Guinness World Record for "largest gathering of people dressed in Regency costumes." (Sept. 18-27; 011-44-1225- 443000;
www.janeausten.co.uk/festival).
If the festival doesn't coincide with your travel plans, Jane's presence permeates Bath throughout the year. The Jane Austen Centre, just a few doors down from one of the houses in which Jane lived, offers a permanent exhibition on Jane's experiences in Bath and their effect on her writing. Enjoy "Tea With Mr. Darcy" in its Regency Tea Room before or after one of the center's excellent walking tours. (40 Gay St., Queen Square; 011-44-1225-443000;
www.janeausten.co.uk)
Other must-sees in Bath include two places where Jane and her characters attended balls and other social events. The Assembly Rooms (011-44-1225-477173;
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/ w-bathassemblyrooms) appear much as they did in Jane's time, with the addition of a Museum of Costume on the lower level. In the Pump Room of the Roman Baths (011-44-1225-444477;
www.romanbaths.co.uk), people-watch to the music of a string trio while indulging in the "Jane Austen High Tea" like a proper heroine (or hero). Should you care to sip a glass of spa water for your health, as Regency-era visitors did (apparently in the belief that something so dreadful-tasting must be good for one's constitution), a costumed gentleman will draw it for you.
Hampshire:
Jane Austen's county
"Everybody is acquainted with Chawton & speaks of it as a remarkably pretty village, & everybody knows the House we describe."
–Jane Austen, letter to her sister Cassandra
Just southwest of London lies Hampshire, the county where Jane Austen was born, lived the majority of her life and died.
After her father died, Jane left Bath and returned to Hampshire with her mother and sister, settling in Chawton in 1809. Jane's older brother, Edward, who had inherited Chawton Great House from wealthy, childless relatives, provided the Austen women a six-bedroom cottage in the village.
It was in Chawton Cottage (now Jane Austen's House Museum) that Jane's lifelong gift of writing matured and flourished. On what seems an impossibly small writing table that still rests in the corner of the parlor, she revised the manuscripts that became Sense and Sensibility , Pride and Prejudice and Northanger Abbey and wrote Mansfield Park, Emma and Persuasion.
The comfortable house, surrounded by gardens and greenery, holds many Austen artifacts. To coincide with this year's 200th anniversary of Jane's arrival in Chawton, the cottage and outbuildings have undergone major renovations to resemble even more closely the home Jane knew. (011-44-1420-83262; www. jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk)
A short walk down the road, Edward's 16th-century mansion has been restored as the Chawton House Library, a center for the study of early English women writers (011-44-1420-541010;
www.chawton.org). Its collection of rare novels and other works includes a manuscript by Jane Austen and early editions of her novels. Guided tours of the house and library are offered twice weekly (reservations recommended). Self-guided garden tours are available weekdays. Adjacent is St. Nicholas Church , where Jane's mother and sister are buried. These sites and more are part of Chawton's Jane Austen Trail (011-44-1420-85057;
www.janeaustenalton.co.uk).
In the final weeks of her life, Jane moved to Winchester to be closer to her doctor. She died in 1817 at age 41 and is buried in the north aisle of Winchester Cathedral. Her grave and a window erected in her memory are part of the regular public tour; a special Jane Austen Tour can be prebooked for groups of five or more (011-44-1962-857225;
www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk). Near the cathedral, a plaque marks the house at No. 8 College St. where she died.
Derbyshire:
Mr. Darcy country
"With the mention of Derbyshire, there were many ideas connected. It was impossible for [Elizabeth] to see the word without thinking of Pemberley and its owner."
–Pride and Prejudice
Though Elizabeth Bennet traveled to Derbyshire hoping to avoid Mr. Darcy, modern Janeites go there hoping to find him.
In her descriptions of Elizabeth's journey to Darcy's home territory, Austen refers to many real locations in the Peak District, including Bakewell. This charming village and the Rutland Arms Hotel on its square are thought to have been the model for the fictional Lambton and the inn where Elizabeth stayed.
Indeed, the Rutland Arms maintains that Austen herself lodged there in 1811 while revising Pride and Prejudice, and you can book the room in which she is said to have slept. Although there is no documented evidence of Austen's stay, the 1804 hotel is nevertheless an authentic example of the coaching inns she and her characters would have patronized while traveling. Its exceptional dining room is open to non-guests and is one of several local restaurants that claim to have invented the Bakewell tart. (011-44-1629-812812;
www.rutlandarmsbakewell.co.uk)
Austen also mentions Chatsworth, the nearby home of the duke and duchess of Devonshire that is believed to have inspired Pemberley. One of 10 Treasure Houses of England, Chatsworth is a magnificent estate and indeed served as the filming location of the Pemberley scenes in the 2005 Pride and Prejudice movie starring Keira Knightley. Another great house near Bakewell, the 12th-century Haddon Hall, was used to film the Lambton Inn scenes.
Other Derbyshire filming locations include Sudbury Hall and Lyme Park, used for Pemberley interiors and exteriors in the 1995 BBC miniseries. (Chatsworth, 011-44-1246 535300,
www.chatsworth.org; Haddon Hall, 011-44-1629-812855,
www.haddonhall.co.uk; Sudbury Hall, 011-44-1283-585305, www. nationaltrust.org.uk/sudburyhall; Lyme Park, 011-44-1663-762023,
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lymepark)
London:
Hub of Regency society
"Here I am once more in this Scene of Dissipation & vice, and I begin already to find my Morals corrupted."
–Jane Austen, letter to Cassandra
Jane never officially resided in London, but both she and her characters visited the city. Throughout her adult life, she was a regular guest in the home of her brother Henry and spent a considerable amount of time there in the autumn of 1815, nursing him through an illness and overseeing the publication of Emma.
Although Jane joked about London's tainting influence, she enjoyed the city's cultural opportunities. She also took advantage of its shops, performing errands not only for herself but also for friends and family back home. Her favorite tea merchant, Twinings, still operates out of the same 1717 shop that Jane patronized. (216 Strand; 011-44-207-353-3511;
www.twinings.co.uk)
The National Portrait Gallery (011-44-20-7306-0055;
www.npg.org.uk) houses the only portrait of Jane that scholars are reasonably certain was drawn during her lifetime. This 1810 watercolor-and-pencil sketch by her sister Cassandra is on permanent display in Room 18. The Gallery's archives also hold several 1870 stipple engravings based on the portrait; these are viewable only by appointment.
Remember the small writing table back at Chawton Cottage? The British Library now holds the portable writing desk that Jane used to set upon it. This small wooden case, with a sloped writing surface and compartments for supplies, is on permanent display in the "Sir John Ritblat Gallery: Treasures of the British Library," along with Jane's 1815 Persuasion manuscript and the third volume of her juvenilia notebooks. (St. Pancras building, 96 Euston Road; 011-44-870-444-1500;
www.bl.uk)When you go
Details
•Not all locations are open daily. Check online or by phone to confirm schedules and ticket prices.
•Chatsworth House is undergoing significant restoration in 2009. Although most areas remain open to visitors, some wheelchair access and views may be restricted. Call or consult Chatsworth's Web site for updates.
•For more Jane Austen-related locations throughout England, In the Steps of Jane Austen by Anne-Marie Edwards (Jones Books, $18.95) is a valuable guide.
•Hampshire County Council, www3.hants.gov.uk/austen. htm
•Derbyshire UK,
www.derbyshireuk.net/ pride_prejudice.html
•Seeking Jane Austen,
www.seekingjaneausten.com•The Republic of Pemberley,
www.pemberley.com/jasites/jasites.htmlJane Austen in the U.S.
The Jane Austen Society of North America sponsors year-round programs and events throughout the U.S. Membership is open to anyone with an interest in Austen. The Dallas-Fort Worth area has a very active local chapter and will be hosting the society's annual international conference in 2011.
•National Web site:
www.jasna.org•North Texas chapter,
www.jasnanorthtexas.org, or Rosalie Sternberg (214-676-1995) /p>
who is CARRIE BEBRIS
Carrie Bebris is the author of the award-winning Mr. & Mrs. Darcy Mystery series, in which the now-married Elizabeth and Mr. Darcy from Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice find themselves embroiled in intrigue. The series opens with Pride and Prescience, and the Darcys' continuing adventures (Suspense and Sensibility, North by Northanger, and The Matters at Mansfield) entangle them with characters from other Austen novels. Her fifth mystery, The Intrigue at Highbury, will be released in March.
•A life member of the Jane Austen Society of North America, Bebris holds a master's degree in English literature and speaks frequently about Austen and her writing. She resides in Ohio.
•Contact:
www.carriebebris.comTHANKS TO
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